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Paris Style Week blurs line between runway and efficiency

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PARIS — Blurring the road between vogue and efficiency, the Japanese home of Issey Miyake for Homme Plisse used a troupe of acrobats who contorted, danced and seemingly courted loss of life for a spectacular Paris Style Week males’s present.

Listed here are some highlights of Thursday’s spring-summer 2023 reveals in Paris.

In eye-popping hues impressed by flowers and vases, fashions mingled with performers contained in the newly renovated La Poste du Louvre for this uncommon and delicate showcase of vogue designs by dance.

From a hidden ledge excessive above the courtyard runway, a dancing troupe all of a sudden stood up mid-show to gasps from the viewers. In pastel coloured, loosely-fitting pleated clothes the performers then climbed down ladders, earlier than performing death-defying leaps, falls and tumbles. Performers have been tossed by the air like missiles, to be caught by dancers throughout the courtyard. There was no security web above the laborious stone flooring.

The present was directed by Rachid Ouramdane of the Théâtre Nationwide de Chaillot, that includes a collective of acrobats, Compagnie XY.

The style itself was comfortable compared. Gradual curves on the neck and midriff emulated the shapes of vases with a pleasant weight that produced a dynamic silhouette. A pleated tunic in pastel pink was twinned with a brief jacket, with breast panels that resembled an Asian warrior. Elsewhere, a waistcoat in vivid dandelion sported studded pockets that unfurled like a gap flower.

Colour-blocking was additionally a robust theme — with pastel purple contrasting with blush and raisin black on one look, and on one other pastel yellow and midnight blue. It was a robust return to the runway for Homme Plisse at Issey Miyake.

RICK OWENS’ ANCIENT EGYPT

American designer Rick Owens delved into the traditional world for inspiration, coming back from a keep in Egypt and a go to to the Temple of Edfu on the Nile.

Typically the thinker, Owens mentioned that his “private considerations … felt petty within the face of that type of timelessness.” He has in latest seasons commented on the impression the pandemic has had on vogue and past — and embraced the lockdown as a time for introspection.

Owens has at all times had an aesthetic riffing on the garb of Historic Egypt, with togas, drapes and excessive priestess kinds gracing his runways. However on Thursday’s present he turned up the dial for a really private tackle such silhouettes.

“Mendacity down within the filth with the Valley of Kings inside view was a perspective I appreciated,” he mentioned.

Just like the lengthy stone carvings on the traditional temple, silhouettes have been elongated by layering clothes to drop the midriff low. Darkish flared pants have been so lengthy the material grazed alongside the stone steps because the fashions walked down the Palais de Tokyo venue. It created a cool surreal impact.

“Excessive shoulders” — big and rounded — created this Egyptian priest vibe, tailor-made by the American vogue grasp in silk chiffon, crisp cotton, and garish plaid.

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